When the Failes were learning Mampruli they lived in a village about 20 minutes from Nalerigu for several months to immerse themselves in the language and culture. A couple weeks ago I went with Elisabeth to the funeral of one of her Mamprusi language study friends’ mother. I’ve been meaning to post these images for a while but I’ve been traveling and working so much I hadn’t gotten a chance.
The traditions and rituals surrounding funerals in West Africa are very complex. People write books about such customs. I thought I would share some of the observations I made at this funeral as well as some of the things that I’ve learned about Mamprusi funeral traditions from Elizabeth and others.
One of the most important things to note about the passing of a Mampruli person is that there isn’t a funeral, there are three funerals. The day the person is buried is the first, followed 6-10 days later by a second funeral. Finally, weeks or even months later they hold a dry season funeral. This final ceremony is meant to release the deceased’s spirit from the dead body.
Funerals are very expensive events and as one missionary told me, “funerals impoverish families.” Drummers are paid to play for hours on end, food for what can be hundreds is bought and prepared, fetish priests are hired for sacrifices, family members travel expenses are paid from far away villages and more. Relatives of the deceased are obliged by tradition to do all of this or else they will be mocked by their neighbors and accused of disrespecting their dead family member.
At the funeral I attended an announcer spent a good 10 minutes reading off a long list of all who had donated chickens, goats, food, or money to the family. Only when he was finished did the dancing and celebration begin.
Another interesting tradition lies in the dancing and drumming. Men will get up and dance to the drummers’ beat and bystanders will give them money for “good dancing.” As they work up a sweat spinning and hopping the donors stick coins and bills on their foreheads. The drummers collect all the loose change as part of their payment.
Most of the women were preparing food for the feast during the dancing. However, a few were involved not as dancers but as “shriekers.” They would let out these loud, high-pitched yells to encourage the men dancing.
Elisabeth and I couldn’t leave until we had eaten some food. Our hostess served us tz (pronouced “tee-zet”) a thickened porridge made from corn flour. We would scoop the porridge out from a common bowl with our right hands and dip it in a spicy stew of very tender goat meat. It was quite good but extremely hot as it had just come off the fire. I was sure I would have blisters on my fingers later that evening.
After eating we asked for the road (aka requested permission to leave) and head back as night began to fall. After everyone else at the funeral had eaten they would continue dancing and drumming into the wee hours of the morning.